Search this blog ...

Loading...

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

I replaced the stock clarion head unit in the Magna

All the instructions I have found on the Internet regarding Magna head-unit wiring seem to be for older models. I drive a 2004 Magna TL ES that I picked up second hand for a great price. My main annoyance from an electrical perspective on this car is that the stock head-unit has no 3.5mm audio line-in, and that the remote fob chain always seems to be flat requiring me to access the car using a key which can only be accomplished at the driver's side door. Thus to open the boot/trunk, I'm forced to open the driver's side door and reach in to the glove-box and push the release button which is a major PITA.

Back to the audio.... Frustrated with the lousy reception of the FM transmitted audio from my GPS, I decided to drop in to a car sound store and pick up a new head-unit. This particular store I'm well accustomed to having spent at least a thousand dollars at it way back when I was got my first second-hand car. Nowadays I'm tight as a fish's ass, and consequently I requested at the store the cheapest head-unit they have (first-hand or second-hand), that is equipped with a line-in.

I ended up purchasing a Kenwood KDC-MP243 for $110 to replace the stock Clarion PE-2605K-A unit.

Anyway this blog is not just about me, it's about documenting important things that I've learned and will likely forget just as quickly. For this first post, I give you the true wiring details as verified from a Mitsubishi circuit diagram. Once again, I'm too cheap to go and purchase those wiring harness things from Super Cheap or Repco. Real men cut off the stock connectors, use a portable butane soldering iron, and hope like hell they can get the shit back together before the wife gets home (I accomplished this with minutes to spare - about 4-5 hours work all up).

B-66A connector going in to head-unit

1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8

3 BLUE MUTE (Incoming Call)


B-66 connector going in to head-unit

11 12 13 -- -- 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24


11 YELLOW/RED REAR RIGHT SPEAKER +
17 GRAY/RED REAR RIGHT SPEAKER -

12 YELLOW/BLUE REAR LEFT SPEAKER +
18 GRAY/BLUE REAR LEFT SPEAKER -

13 PINK ANTENNA

20 BLUE IGNITION SWITCH / ACC

21 RED/BLACK BATTERY

14 GREEN/WHITE HEADLAMP
22 BLACK/YELLOW RHEOSTAT

15 WHITE/BLUE FRONT LEFT SPEAKER +
23 BLACK/BLUE FRONT LEFT SPEAKER -

16 WHITE/RED FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER +
24 BLACK/RED FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER -

Note: pin-outs are viewed as if looking at the physical device side of things. Such that, we are holding the radio and looking at its rear.

It could be also perceived as if viewing wiring from behind connector plug (such that, the side where the various wires from all parts of the car enter the plug), and NOT the front female view of the plug!!!

Other things to note, RHEOSTAT in this context is the component that determines how bright/dark you want your dashboard display.

HEADLAMP on the other hand is activated whenever you turn your lights on.

Accessing the Head Unit:

First pull up the centre console strip (the piece with the window switches and cup holders) and detach the electrical socket.

Next, pull out the compartment just below the climate control.

After this, pull the stereo surround out by gripping just above the vents and below the climate controls. You'll need to disconnect the air sensor, hazard cable and climate cables.

Then unscrew the four screws holding the DIN bracket in (two top / two bottom) and disconnect the wiring harness from the stereo.





3 comments:

  1. nice one, this saved me a big headache - after following the supposed pinouts from the aussie magna club website, i had no auto-aerial and no preset station memory in my replacement deck. After reading this, swapping a couple of the wires over, hey presto!
    thanks!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks heaps, just changed stereo over on my AWD TL. One question where did the origional stereo get it's earth from ??

    ReplyDelete
  3. Plugging the antenna into the radio may give a ground for the radio to operate. Many auto makers do NOT place a ground wire in the radios indash wire harness. Many auto makers factory
    radios use metal brackets to mount and secure the factory radio to a metal dash. For these radios, the ground is actually a
    ground path through metal instead of a ground wire. When installing radios where no ground wire exists in the indash wire
    harness, it is best to crimp on a ring terminal connector to the new replacement radios ground wire and screw the ring terminal
    and attached ground wire to the metal of the dash when mounting the new radio.

    ReplyDelete